Categoria: Master Gardener

What You Need To Know Before Repotting Your Houseplants

Q. When should I repot my houseplants? Is there anything I should know before I start?

A. When your indoor plants start growing again, usually in the early spring when the days become longer, it’s time to give them some attention. Tip the plant out of its container and look at the roots. Have they filled the container? Are they circling? Coming out of the drainage holes? If you answer “yes” to any of these questions, it’s time to move your plant to a larger container.

When potting up, select a container that is only slightly larger. For instance, you would move a plant from a 6-inch pot into an 8-inch pot. Relocating into a much larger container will cause problems including root rot from inadequate drainage.

If the roots look crowded or are circling, try to gently separate them. Extreme circling roots can be trimmed and unwound. Use fresh potting soil and a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote when filling the pot. If using a systemic pesticide, now is a good time to dose with that to get a jump on aphids, mites, and mealybugs.

You may be tempted to put your indoor plants outside once the weather gets warm and sunny. This can result in severe sunburn and, in extreme cases, defoliation (loss of all leaves). Even plants that have been brought inside for winter protection should be gradually acclimated to direct sunlight. Think about your first sunburn of the season – this is how your plant feels when it’s brought outside for too long.

Q. My citrus trees have been super productive and I don’t know what to do with all of the fruit. I was thinking about canning some of the juice, but I can’t find any canning recipes for citrus juice. Why is that?

A. Citrus will lose its flavor when exposed to high temperatures. Citric acid is the key component of citrus’ tart flavor, but it breaks down at 175 degrees. When a recipe calls for citrus juice, it almost always instructs you to add it immediately before serving. If citrus is heated to a high temperature for too long, it can impart a bitter flavor or cause discoloration.

What about commercially prepared citrus juice? To ensure shelf stability, it has to either be pasteurized or heat processed. Since the juice has lost its flavor, flavoring agents must be added after the fact.

Marmalade is another alternative, but I shudder to think about how many jars I could get out of 100 pounds of oranges.

If you have a glut of citrus (and you’ve given so much of it away that your neighbors run away when they see you coming with another bagful), you can freeze the juice since that will preserve the flavor. Grated zest can be frozen as well and added into recipes at a later date. Dried orange slices seemed to be a popular Christmas decoration last year. Perhaps this trend will still be around next Christmas and you can get a head start on your decorations!

Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; 949-809-9760; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-683-6491 ext. 231; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu/

Laura Simpson | Columnist Laura Simpson has been a master gardener since 2002, and a master food preserver since 2015. She and her husband, Jim (also a master gardener), live near Temecula in an ordinary tract home. Their edible landscape consists of an ever-changing variety of fruit trees, herbs and vegetables. Together, they have five children. Laura frequently speaks on gardening and food preservation topics, including vegetable and herb gardening, edible landscaping and food safety. Before joining the master gardener program, she worked in the biotech industry and in biomedical research. She holds a Bachelor of Science degree in molecular biology from UC San Diego.

Composting Meat, And The Curious Case Of An Artificial Turf Fungus

Q. Hello from West Los Angeles. I have what I think is a fungus growing through our artificial turf. Any suggestions on how to deal with this without damaging the turf or endangering our dog? I am considering using our shop vac after loosening it a bit. Thoughts?

A. Artificial turf has become a popular choice for California homeowners who want a maintenance-free landscape that won’t use water. If you have an odd-shaped area that is difficult to irrigate, is in deep shade, or is not suitable for any plants (no matter how hardy), artificial turf can provide a ready solution. Many of my fellow master gardeners may disagree, but I think there are some situations where artificial turf can be useful.

Although low maintenance, it can have its drawbacks. In your case, you’ve got mushrooms growing out of it. Fungi (at least mushrooms as good-looking as yours) need organic matter in order to grow. That organic matter could be soil, leaves, or anything really. Professionally installed artificial turf has an extensive base layer consisting of gravel inlay, sand, decomposed granite or any combination of these. If you have mushrooms growing at the edge of your turf, you may not have enough base layer or possibly a drainage problem.

High and low spots can cause drainage issues, which can lead to moss or fungi growth. If there’s standing water, you can end up with mosquito problems as well. Curling or lifting at the edges or seams can also occur if the base is not installed properly.

Removing the mushrooms will only be a temporary fix. I recommend contacting your installer for more recommendations. The base layer may need attention.

Q  Why can’t you compost meat?

A. Obviously, meat will putrefy and smell awful. That stench will attract rats, mice, opossums, raccoons, and other unwelcome visitors. Meat can also harbor parasites and other disease-causing organisms that may not be destroyed in the composting process. Although your compost thermometer may read 160 degrees at some point, there’s no guarantee that every inch of that pile has reached that temperature. Most pathogens, pests, and weed seeds are killed at 160, but not all of them. Consider that in order to maintain that temperature, the pile will need to be turned frequently, and believe me, you don’t want to do that when there’s rotten meat lurking in there.

Commercial or municipal composting facilities can handle meat waste because they use a high-temperature process that kills pathogens.

Q. Why is home-grown fruit smaller than supermarket fruit? My grapes are so tiny! 

A. Commercially grown varieties are selected for larger size, ease of harvest, beauty, and resistance to damage during shipping. They are often heavily fertilized and sometimes treated with plant growth hormones.

If you want to grow especially large fruit, for instance, a huge pumpkin for Halloween, plant a variety that gets big, remove all but one fruit from the vine and fertilize generously. Soon you will have a gigantic pumpkin of dubious utility that is fibrous and has no flavor.

Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; 949-809-9760; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-683-6491 ext. 231; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu/

Laura Simpson | Columnist Laura Simpson has been a master gardener since 2002, and a master food preserver since 2015. She and her husband, Jim (also a master gardener), live near Temecula in an ordinary tract home. Their edible landscape consists of an ever-changing variety of fruit trees, herbs and vegetables. Together, they have five children. Laura frequently speaks on gardening and food preservation topics, including vegetable and herb gardening, edible landscaping and food safety. Before joining the master gardener program, she worked in the biotech industry and in biomedical research. She holds a Bachelor of Science degree in molecular biology from UC San Diego.

Master Gardener: The Curse Of Stinkweed And Fruit-Thieving Squirrels

Stinknet is a plant that is native to South Africa and has become the obnoxious weed of the moment in Southern California. It first appeared here in the 1980s and has steadily made its way into almost every county in California as well as some areas in Arizona and Nevada. It’s been classified as an emerging invasive because its spread has accelerated in recent years. 

Also known as globe chamomile, stinknet has thick waxy leaves that resemble those of a carrot. In the early spring, it bears yellow, ball-shaped flowers. It closely resembles the sweet-scented pineapple weed but it has a strong, unpleasant odor that has been compared to turpentine or tar. It has an upright growth habit and can reach up to 3 feet in height. 

As is the case with most invasive weeds, stinkweed spreads aggressively and forms dense clumps. This chokes out natives and other desirable plants. Once established, it is extremely difficult to eradicate.

Even sheep and goats don’t like it, so you’ll have to do the dirty work yourself.

The herbicides Milestone, Capstone, and glyphosate are somewhat effective, but they can take some time to work. They should be applied before the plant flowers and has a chance to disperse its seeds. These herbicides are most effective on newly emerging plants. Stinknet’s waxy leaves and dense growth habit make it resistant to chemical control.

Mowing once or twice will cause the plant to grow low to the ground but won’t slow it down. Repeated mowing at a very low setting may exhaust the plant eventually.

Q. I garden in Fullerton and there are squirrels adjacent to my vegetable garden area. They love to eat some vegetables every year. This year I am building a 12-inch high wire cage for protection over my strawberry plants. The cage is about 5 feet square. I wish to cover the cage with wire. My Question: I plan to use 1- or maybe ¾ – inch chicken wire on the top & sides. A friend is suggesting I use ¼ – inch wire. I chose the larger chicken wire to allow more sunlight to shine on the strawberry plants. Which size wire would you suggest, or do you have another idea to keep the rodents out?

A. Squirrels are not the only connoisseurs of strawberries. Birds, mice, and rats also enjoy them. I recommend ½ – inch hardware cloth which will exclude mice as well as the other critters. Keep in mind that squirrels can dig under this cage if it sits directly on the ground. If you garden in raised beds, the cage can more easily be secured.

One of my acquaintances had a problem with crows raiding his strawberry patch. He purchased a bag of beach pebbles and spray-painted them bright red, then placed them under and around his strawberries. The crows got an unpleasant surprise when they tried pecking at the rocks and decided to move on. Squirrels are such jerks that they would probably steal both the rocks and the strawberries.

Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; 949-809-9760; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-683-6491 ext. 231; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu/

Laura Simpson | Columnist Laura Simpson has been a master gardener since 2002, and a master food preserver since 2015. She and her husband, Jim (also a master gardener), live near Temecula in an ordinary tract home. Their edible landscape consists of an ever-changing variety of fruit trees, herbs and vegetables. Together, they have five children. Laura frequently speaks on gardening and food preservation topics, including vegetable and herb gardening, edible landscaping and food safety. Before joining the master gardener program, she worked in the biotech industry and in biomedical research. She holds a Bachelor of Science degree in molecular biology from UC San Diego.

What You Need To Know About Plant Propagation

Q. I would like to try my hand at propagation. What is the difference between softwood and hardwood propagation? Are there any secrets to success?

Propagation by cutting (also called “clonal propagation”) is a form of asexual reproduction. The advantage to this process is that the resulting plants will be identical to the original plant. 

When deciding which plant to take cuttings from, choose one that is vigorous and free of pests and disease. Use a sharp knife to minimize damage (mangled cuttings are not happy cuttings!). Keep a disinfecting solution close by so you can sanitize the blade between cuttings. I like to use isopropyl alcohol since it’s non-corrosive. If using rooting hormone powder, dispense a small amount into a dish to avoid contaminating the entire bottle. Rooting media should hold water but drain freely. I recommend a mixture of coir or peat moss, vermiculite, and sand. The media should be sterile and nutrient-free. Moisten the mixture beforehand. I’ve found that coir and peat moss can take some time to completely hydrate and can absorb a surprisingly large amount of water.

Softwood cuttings can be taken in the spring when succulent new growth appears. Remove a 2- to 6-inch long piece of stem, including the growing tip. Cut right below a node and remove all leaves, flowers, and buds. This ensures that any energy contained in the cutting goes toward root production instead of flower or leaf production. Dip the cut end into rooting powder and tap off the excess. Push the cut end into the medium so that at least one node is below soil level (nodes will develop into roots). The cutting should be able to stand up by itself. Keep the cutting(s) moist and in a cool environment with bright indirect light. Application of bottom heat can encourage root growth, but it also dries the medium quickly. If using a heat mat, check the moisture levels several times per day.

Hardwood cuttings can be taken in the winter dormancy period. Take 6- to 20-inch cuttings from the previous season’s growth, but don’t include the tip. Cuttings can be taken either during or after winter pruning. Since there’s no growing tip to tell you which end of the cutting is which, I recommend cutting the top end straight across and the bottom end at an angle. Dip the bottom end into rooting powder, tap off the excess, and bundle the cuttings together with a rubber band. Place them in a bag containing moistened sawdust, peat, or coir and store them in a cool, dark place where you won’t forget about them. We put ours in the garage fridge next to the beer. Check the bag every so often to make sure it’s not drying out. 

If you want to propagate a fig tree, forget all of the above and just shove a short cutting into the ground.

Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; 949-809-9760; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-683-6491 ext. 231; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu/

Laura Simpson | Columnist Laura Simpson has been a master gardener since 2002, and a master food preserver since 2015. She and her husband, Jim (also a master gardener), live near Temecula in an ordinary tract home. Their edible landscape consists of an ever-changing variety of fruit trees, herbs and vegetables. Together, they have five children. Laura frequently speaks on gardening and food preservation topics, including vegetable and herb gardening, edible landscaping and food safety. Before joining the master gardener program, she worked in the biotech industry and in biomedical research. She holds a Bachelor of Science degree in molecular biology from UC San Diego.